If your forks are misaligned then you should check out this section of the fork springs swap which outlines how to adjust the fork caps and locknuts to get both forks the same length. You may need to use something to compress one fork to line up with the other before you can drive the axle through. It is important to pay attention because sometimes the fork legs are slightly different lengths (this is due to slight misassembly of the fork inners). If you do that you won’t be able to get the 17mm allen in there to torque the front axle. It’s important not to use just a regular hammer or you will round over the edges of the 17mm axle hole. Get the axle started through and use a deadblow/rubber hammer or a hammer and block of wood to drive it all the way through until it’s flush with the fork leg (see pic to right). Now put your wheel spacers back on properly (left bigger than right) and lift the wheel into place. If you don’t feel comfortable re-using them, then replace them. If your bolts look fine then they should be ok to re-use (with loctite). The manual doesn’t mention loctite on these bolts because they “require” replacement and new bolts come with the loctite on them. If for any reason the rotors needed to be removed (some shops will remove them to swap tires) make sure that they are reinstalled with red loctite and torqued to 14 ft/lbs. This is pretty much the reverse of what you just did to remove the wheel.
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